As the airline would take us home later that day, it was time to make our way back into the Boston area. After another morning run we went to the airport to get the TBM ready for a last flight of this adventure. As Boston Logan isnt very general aviation friendly and charges 600 USD for a landing, we chose the Lawrence Airfield right next to Boston as our final destination. The ride was short and smooth and with a last very windy landing we touched ground for the last time. A non-alcoholic beer right on the apron next to the field concluded this epic 8 days journey across the Atlantic.
In summary we flew 7 legs and more than 4000 miles across 6 countries within 8 days. We experienced Scotland, the amazing nature with its geysirs and waterfalls and endless widths of Iceland, the northern Lights and Icebergs and wonderful people in Greenland and the impressive coast line of Maine as well as the beautiful mountain area around Burlington. All worked as planned and the weather could not have been more perfect. We had blue skies in Iceland and Greenland which is anything else than a given in fall.
In Lawrence we said good bye to the TBM which will stay in the US for a while and took a taxi to Logan from where we would fly back to Europe. Packed with many exciting memories and some amazing photos. And already some ideas for a next trip.
Another non-fly day after two long legs from Greenland to Canada to Portland the day before. We decided to explore the beaches around Portland and the city itself. We started the day with the usual morning run around Bideeford Pool – a small village south of Portland where we rented a rather run down house close to the shore. The run along the waterfront, through the woods and across the beach was wonderful. After another healthy breakfast we took the car to Portland. Portland is a fishermen city and and eldorado for all seafood lovers. We finally got our Lobster Rolls here and visited the piers. While the beaches and nature in the area are nice, the city itself is not really a highlight. The omni-present weed-smell aside, there is a small old town, an artist district and the waterfront with the piers and some fish stores and restaurants.
As there isnt too much to see or do around here and as we still had a few day left until the airline would take us home, we spontaneously decided to to add another destination. After a look at the wather map and suitable airports within a 2hrs radius we decided for Burlington, Vermont. So we went to bed early to get some rest before another flight the next day.
After a phenomenal day in Greenland including sailing the Fjord of Nuuk with Icebergs, it was time to move on. While flying from Germany to Scotland to Iceland to Greenland is rather hazzle free, things become a bit more complicated once entering the american continent. For Canada (our first destination) we require a visa waiver upfront (comparable to the US ESTA) plus private flights require an announcement via phone before take-off. This means calling an officer, spelling all the crew names, birth dates, passport numbers, destination and arrival airport and so on. For the US it gets even more complicated: Flying to the US in a private airplane is only possible with valid B1/B2 visas for all crew members plus it requires a customs decleration (online) plus a call prior to leaving the origin country. Means: Its illegal to fly into the US without the prior customs calls where one gets a landing permit – this will become a challenge for us that day.
Back to Greenland: We left the house early towards the airport. Despite temperatures around the freezing point, the plane was not frozen and did not require de-icing. Greenland is as mentioned before mostly un-controlled airspace and so is the airport (even though its the international airport of the capital). This means there is not tower controller providing instructions but pilots decide on their own.
We took off towards the north and turned west, taking course towards Canada. The two and a half hours flight took us across the Atlantic pretty straight into Newfoundland towards Goose Bay. Goose Bay is a huge military airport and mainly used for re-fueling as there is not much else (and you dont want to get stuck there). Our plan was to just re-fuel and immediately continue towards Portland (Maine). We were however unable to reach the customs officer (even though they should be available 24/7) and despite countless calls over the course of an hour and various other numbers and mails we were not able to get our landing permission for the US. Entering the US without a customs landing permit is absolutely illegal – we were stuck. So we had to delay our flight plan while we still hoped for the clearance. After an hour we gave up and re-routed our flight to Groton where we were able to get a hold of customs and a customs clearance.
We finally took off with more then one hour delay and continued our flight over Canadas North. The plane has a satellite phone on-board and we gave the Portland customs call one more chance. The officer finally picked up and gave us the landing permission – in flight. ATC (Air Traffic Control) accepted our request to divert to Portland and hence we were able to continue as planned – with some delay. Once landed in Portland we had to park at the customs office where the officer from the phone inspected us, checked our Visas, checked the plane and gave us some dinner tips for Portland. We then started the engine again to taxi across the airport to our parking stand.
We picked up our rental car and drove to our home in Biddeford Pool. The next day is a ground day to explore Biddeford and Portland.
We are in Nuuk, the capital of Greenland which only counts 40.000 inhabitants. After exploring the city where there is plenty of construction going on and dinner we were lucky on the way back to our home to see the Aurora (Arctic lights). They came as a total suprise and we were lucky to just at this moment pass a hill which we spontaneously climbed. The view was amazing (see pictures – they are not photoshopped or filtered!).
On day two we rented a boat and went for a fjord cruise to explore the icebergs. The views were incredible despite very cold temperatures (2C).
Tomorrow (Saturday) we will continue our journey. Our current planning is to cross the Atlantic further to the west and fly to Goose Bay (Canada) where we will re-fuel (and clear immigration even though we only want to transit but Canada doesnt foresee that) and then continue to the US (Portland, Maine).
Our 3rd leg took us from Iceland to Greenland. A roughly 3 hours flight across the open Atlantic and later the rough terrain of Greenland. The weather was again good and the routing took us pretty direct west. Greenland airspace is mostly uncontrolled which means navigation at own discretion and not guided by ATC (Air Traffic Control). When reaching the west coast of Greenland with wonderful views of the surroundings, we informed Nuuk Tower that we will do some “sightseeing flying” over the bay.
The scenery of greenlands coast is impressive. Shortly after we started the approach into Nuuk International airport (the only international flights depart to Iceland). After parking the plane we experienced the Greenlandian “pragmatism” – made made our way by foot over the Apron towards the Airport, found an unlocked door, walked through the empty security area and ended in the terminal.
Earlier when planning this flight we already noticed a NOTAM (Notice to Airmen) mentioning planned “blastings” in the airport proximity. We now learnt that the Nuuk airport currently is being extended (longer rundway for bigger jets). Leveling the rocky terrain takes some hard measures and hence the mountains are being blasted away. This means flying rocks in the air and as our plane parked right next to the blasting area, we were asked to come back later that day to move it to a safe location while the blastings take place.
So we went to our (incredible) house, explored Nuuk and later went back to the Airport where we were able to convince the marshaller to tow the plane with his Pick-up truck. We tied the plane to the middle of the runway and waited for the blast (see video). A certainly unique experience which will repeat the next day.
We got asked quite a few times why someone would take the risk, money and time to cross the Atlantic in a single engine plane. Good question, given the facts that such a trip defnitely comes with signficantly bigger risks than going to the grocery store and costs a multiple of an airline ticket. At the same time our plane offers less comfort, the trip takes much longer (4-5 days) and is mentally demanding and full of uncertainties.
So here is why:
We have to: Our plane needs some technical upgrades and the company specialized on performing the work sits in the US (close to Boston). Hence the plane has to get over there – and eventually also back. But as the modifications will take multiple weeks we for now just fly it over, will return by airline and eventually bring it back at a later point in time.
We want to: Flying is our passion, and we love being up in the air and challenge our brains.
We like to explore the world: Iceland, Greenland and the very far north of Canada are remote areas people usually dont get to easily. While Iceland had a bit of a touristic hypes the last years, its still today complicated and very expensive to get to places like Nuuk (Greenland). Seeing the Icebergs and how people live there is a very impressive experience.
It keeps us fit: Flying requires constant training and experience. A trip into challenging areas with new airports, procedures, weather conditions is like a training boot camp that helps to stay current.
We love Lobster Roll: At least one of us. And they are hard to get anywhere in the world but in the Maine / Boston area. Hence to get one, we have to go there.
So in summary we combine the duty with the pleasure and are looking forward to a week of new impressions.
Flying over the northern Atlantic and especially Greenland in fall can be tricky. Fast changes in weather, strong winds, low clouds, snow and ice and the lack of landing fields makes planning far in advance difficult. If conditions permit, we plan to depart from Stuttgart (EDDS) and fly during the first leg to Prestwick (Scotland) for a fuel stop. Our next leg will take us straight from Scotland to Iceland (Reykjavik) where will plan to stay for a day and explore the country.
The next leg will be the most challenging one from Iceland to Greenland’s west coast. This routing leads across the open sea and the ice fields and mountains of Greenland. There are almost no alternate airports on the route and the weather in Greenland is to a certain extend unpredictable at this time of the year. Pilots must wait for the first weather reports from Greenland before allowed to depart Iceland – if conditions allow. A scenario to be avoided is starting the trip and facing below minimums weather conditions in Greenland as fuel will not allow a return and as mentioned alternate landing fields are rare and usually also facing difficult conditions.
Our current plan is to land in Nuuk – the capital of Greenland at its western coast and stay there for two nights and explore the surroundings. From Nuuk the journey will take us further west towards the Canadian coast, with another fuel stop at Goose Bay – an airport in the middle of nowhere with not much around. From there we will continue down the Atlantic Coast towards the United States and finally into the Boston area. The trip should take us around 5 days if everything goes as planned. We are now setting up logistics for the first legs including accommodation and transportation in the first destinations while continuing the flight planning, getting the plane ready and setting up the pack lists.
