Day 5 – Customs Hazzle and Nuuk (Greenland) to Goose Bay (Canada) to Portland (USA)

After a phenomenal day in Greenland including sailing the Fjord of Nuuk with Icebergs, it was time to move on. While flying from Germany to Scotland to Iceland to Greenland is rather hazzle free, things become a bit more complicated once entering the american continent. For Canada (our first destination) we require a visa waiver upfront (comparable to the US ESTA) plus private flights require an announcement via phone before take-off. This means calling an officer, spelling all the crew names, birth dates, passport numbers, destination and arrival airport and so on. For the US it gets even more complicated: Flying to the US in a private airplane is only possible with valid B1/B2 visas for all crew members plus it requires a customs decleration (online) plus a call prior to leaving the origin country. Means: Its illegal to fly into the US without the prior customs calls where one gets a landing permit – this will become a challenge for us that day.

Back to Greenland: We left the house early towards the airport. Despite temperatures around the freezing point, the plane was not frozen and did not require de-icing. Greenland is as mentioned before mostly un-controlled airspace and so is the airport (even though its the international airport of the capital). This means there is not tower controller providing instructions but pilots decide on their own.

We took off towards the north and turned west, taking course towards Canada. The two and a half hours flight took us across the Atlantic pretty straight into Newfoundland towards Goose Bay. Goose Bay is a huge military airport and mainly used for re-fueling as there is not much else (and you dont want to get stuck there). Our plan was to just re-fuel and immediately continue towards Portland (Maine). We were however unable to reach the customs officer (even though they should be available 24/7) and despite countless calls over the course of an hour and various other numbers and mails we were not able to get our landing permission for the US. Entering the US without a customs landing permit is absolutely illegal – we were stuck. So we had to delay our flight plan while we still hoped for the clearance. After an hour we gave up and re-routed our flight to Groton where we were able to get a hold of customs and a customs clearance.

We finally took off with more then one hour delay and continued our flight over Canadas North. The plane has a satellite phone on-board and we gave the Portland customs call one more chance. The officer finally picked up and gave us the landing permission – in flight. ATC (Air Traffic Control) accepted our request to divert to Portland and hence we were able to continue as planned – with some delay. Once landed in Portland we had to park at the customs office where the officer from the phone inspected us, checked our Visas, checked the plane and gave us some dinner tips for Portland. We then started the engine again to taxi across the airport to our parking stand.

We picked up our rental car and drove to our home in Biddeford Pool. The next day is a ground day to explore Biddeford and Portland.

1 day until departure – Why?

We got asked quite a few times why someone would take the risk, money and time to cross the Atlantic in a single engine plane. Good question, given the facts that such a trip defnitely comes with signficantly bigger risks than going to the grocery store and costs a multiple of an airline ticket. At the same time our plane offers less comfort, the trip takes much longer (4-5 days) and is mentally demanding and full of uncertainties.

So here is why:

  • We have to: Our plane needs some technical upgrades and the company specialized on performing the work sits in the US (close to Boston). Hence the plane has to get over there – and eventually also back. But as the modifications will take multiple weeks we for now just fly it over, will return by airline and eventually bring it back at a later point in time.
  • We want to: Flying is our passion, and we love being up in the air and challenge our brains.
  • We like to explore the world: Iceland, Greenland and the very far north of Canada are remote areas people usually dont get to easily. While Iceland had a bit of a touristic hypes the last years, its still today complicated and very expensive to get to places like Nuuk (Greenland). Seeing the Icebergs and how people live there is a very impressive experience.
  • It keeps us fit: Flying requires constant training and experience. A trip into challenging areas with new airports, procedures, weather conditions is like a training boot camp that helps to stay current.
  • We love Lobster Roll: At least one of us. And they are hard to get anywhere in the world but in the Maine / Boston area. Hence to get one, we have to go there.

So in summary we combine the duty with the pleasure and are looking forward to a week of new impressions.

3 Days until departure – It`s all about the weather

Our departure is getting closer and hence we are getting a bit of a more reliable picture on the weather forecast. Weather conditions are the most relevant factor next to the planes specifications and equipment and the pilots skills. If a flight is safe and doable depends on the weather, the airplane instrumentation and de-icing capabilities and the destination airport equipment. Some airports are equiped with instrument landing systems which allow approaches also with low visibilty. Others are not and hence certain minimums (e.g. cloud ceiling) must be fulfilled in order to make a save approach.

Besides the visibility, winds and icing are other factors to be considered before making a decision on if and where to fly. Strong winds not only have an impact on the flight duration (which can vary significantly and with that also the maximum distance we can fly) but also are a key factor defining if a safe landing is possible or not, as planes do have limits for cross-wind (wind from the side) landings.

Dense fog but also strong gusts, low clouds and icing can become show-stoppers (or crash reasons) and hence reliable forecast are important. Thats especially the case when flying to remote areas like Greenland with very limited airport density (hence less alternates).

While we are enjoying an exceptionally long and warm late-summer here in Europe, the weather on our route differs quite a bit. At the moment it looks as follows:

Prestwick (Schotland) reports heavy rain, clouds and a maximum of 12C on the ground for our arrival.

Reykjavik (Iceland) predicts pretty decent weather (unusual for the season) with light rain, some clouds and temperatures between 2 and 12C on the ground.

So far so good. Things start to become more interesting in Greenland: The airport weather report for today looks as follows:

TAF: BGGH 162021Z 1621/1701 17008KT 9999 FEW006 SCT025 TEMPO 1621/1624 0800 SHSN BKN005 SCT025TCU

The so called TAF (Terminal Aerodrome Forecast) is a weather report issued by the airport on a regular basis. Above reads as follws:

BGGH = Airport Code (Nuuk, Greenland)

162021Z = The date and time the report has been issued

1621/1701 = The report is valid from the 16th 21:00 (time) until the 17th 01:00 (United Time)

17008KT = Wind with 8kts from the South (170 degrees at 08 KT)

9999 = Current view is 10km or more (horizontal)

FEW006 = Few clouds at 600ft (which is rather low)

SCT025 = Scattered sky at 2500ft

So far thats the actual weather – which is totally flyable. Now comes the forecast:

TEMPO 1621/1624 = Temporary between on the 16th (date) between 21:00 UTC and 24:00 UTC

And here it gets interesting:

0800 = Vertical view 800m (not a lot anymore)

SHSN = Showers of Snow

BKN005 = Broken Clouds (some open areas) in 500ft (very low)

SCT025TCU = Scattered Clouds in 2500ft with towering cumulus (high reaching clouds)

This weather in combination with a pretty challenging terrain and the lack of alternate airports closeby would already make this a very difficult decision. Luckily we are still a fews days away from Greenland and things might clear up until then.